Teachers on the Move in Colombia


Why are you going so far?  That’s a dangerous country. The latest report says that 22,000 people have been killed, more than 5,000 have disappeared and 4.7 million have been forced off their land during a long civil conflict between the Revolutionary Armed Forces ( FARC) and the nation’s armed forces. Yes! I was bound for Colombia in South America with ten fellow teachers. I was aware that Government and FARC negotiators have been meeting in Havana, Cuba trying to hammer out a peace deal and that President Juan Manuel Santos is trying through diplomatic circles to promote tourism, bring scientific and technical knowledge and encourage investment to this once impoverished Spanish colonial country.
Irish and Colombian mix.
We arrived in the capital Bogota, situated at an altitude of 8.600 feet above sea level with a temperature of 14°C – a big change from 28°C in Ireland. My first impressions were of a dark skinned people dressed in dark wintry clothes with broad welcoming smiles for the rare tourists, local buses jammed tight with people, chaotic traffic, graffiti splashed on all buildings, footpaths uneven and broken, poor road surfaces and a police presence everywhere, numerous street vendors pushing their wares in trolleys and small carts alongside men trading emeralds on the pavements. There seemed to be no evidence of extreme poverty or extreme wealth.
Plaza Bolivar, Bogota

In 1819 Simon Bolivar liberated Colombia after more than 300 years of Spanish occupation. Past glories can only be guessed at as one viewed Plaza Bolivar, Congress, Cardinal and Justice Palaces, Colonial Church of El Sagrario and the House of Independence. A protest was in full swing in the main plaza - a colourful spectacle, as people shouted slogans, blew whistles and bugles and waved numerous colourful flags and banners. Nurses, doctors, teachers and trade unionists were agitating for improved wages and conditions of employment. What’s new!

Protest in full swing!
We visited the Gold Museum where the world’s greatest gold collection – 32,000 pieces of pre Hispanic Indian gold crafts are displayed. Around the corner, housed in a colonial mansion was an art exhibition of the works of Fernando Botero who depicts very amusing obese figures and still life totally out of proportion.  We saw works by Picasso, Renoir, Dali, Matisse and Monet - the works were all donated by Botero to his native Colombia.

We drove out into the countryside. At the foot of the Andes tracts of grasslands help feed many dairy herds. Hundreds of flower tunnels for the cultivation of roses, exotic orchids and flowers are one of Colombia’s exports. The condition of their roads cracked and full of pot holes are terrible. When they were constructed the authorities were charged for high grade concrete but yes you guessed right there was massive corruption and poor quality concrete used was cracking before the roads were completed. On a country road we passed a parade of drivers - truck, car, pilots and captains all sorts of drivers in a convoy of vehicles adorned with blue and white balloons. They carried on a pedestal a statue of the Virgin Mary adorned with flowers. They were honouring her as the patron of all drivers.
   
In the Salt Mine
We explored the famous subterranean Salt Cathedral of Zipaquira. Here we experienced the sights of extraordinary architecture where the stations of the Cross and three naves are eerily illuminated along with other sculptures all hewn from the salt mine tunnels under Halite Mountains. It is still a place of local pilgrimage as Catholicism is the official religion and the faith of the majority of Colombians.

City of Cartagena
An internal flight took us north, to the coast to the city of Cartagena, a complete change from Bogota. Our balcony over looked a palm tree lined beach with a strong rolling surf - too strong for me so we settled for a swim in the 21st floor roof pool. The city basking in a temperature of 30°C is more prosperous than Bogota helped by a thriving tourist industry. We attended mass where we witnessed lines of penitents waiting for Confession and passionate singing by the congregation made up of family groupings. Later we visited the Convent of La Popa situated high up over looking the city. The Virgin Mary was dressed in a magnificent white jewel studied robe with a crown of gold, presented to the people on the occasion of Pope John Paul XIII’s visit in 1986. The monastery is beautifully restored and is a place of pilgrimage.



We continued to San Felipe’s Fort built to protect the city from marauding invaders. After exploring the defensive aspects of this impregnable fortress we strolled through the walled colonial city with its terra cotta roofs, balconies, hidden courtyards, churches, plazas, narrow shaded cobbled streets, boutique hotels – a delight to every traveller’s curiosity.
A long journey by sea took us to the aquamarine waters of the Island of Rosario in the Caribbean. The area is populated with a great variety of reef fauna, among which the lobster is one of the many sources of food. Fisherman came to sell us lobsters while we swam in the warm waters that lapped the white sandy beaches with a backdrop of thatched huts, palms and mangroves. Pelicans, cormorants and egrets dived for fish at close quarters. We were drenched on our return journey to shore as there was a huge swell in the sea that sent water crashing over the sides.
Mary Howley, Mary Kyne and Cait O Malley in Cartagena

Before leaving Ireland we were led to believe that Colombia was a violent, corrupt polluted country with rampart poverty but to our surprise we found the people to be friendly, helpful, welcoming and eager to please. In no way did we feel threatened. If you are feeling adventurous you will pleasantly surprised.

Mary Kyne August 2013