Teacher's Tour Japan



Japan


Old traditional house.
I am glad I joined a group of teachers and visited Japan this summer if only to dispel my misconceptions of this race of people. I had the impression from my reading that they were a rough harsh race of people with a reputation of fanatical courage in battle accompanied with barbaric cruelty towards prisoners of war. In 2014 I found a very good-natured, polite, pleasant, smiling most welcoming and courteous people. Bowing seems to be the traditional way of greeting people. Its depth reflects the status of the person. Their lives seem to be ordered by strict rules of manners and conduct. Group mentality seems to be the accepted way of doing things. One must conform to a higher authority. The group found this difficult yet it is a courteous culture with a warm hospitality.  Loyalty is a virtue most prized to them. They seem to hide their feelings with a smile. They are short in stature with short straight black hair, brown–almond eyes and yellow brown skin. They shield themselves from the sun by using umbrellas and by wearing long gloves. Many wear white masks in the streets and while serving the public.

The Landscape
 128 million inhabit this country. We traveled through the island of Kyushu en route to Nagasaki. The island is lush green with heavily forested hilly slopes (many prone to landslides) with maple, birch, cypress, cedar and bamboo groves which are used as building material and food stuff.  Fresh water lakes abound and are used for industry and irrigation of the numerous paddie fields - a major part of the landscape. Small rice plots often take the place of gardens beside their homes as well as fruit and vegetable farming. At night we went up Mt. Inasa and looked at the splendour of Nagasaki at night. As well as viewing all the memorials at the Peace Park at Nagasaki we saw the stone with the image of the Blessed Virgin. Japanese torturers who wanted to suppress the Catholic religion asked citizens to stamp on this image. If they failed to do so it proved they were Christians and then they were crucified for their beliefs.
We visited the Shimabara Castle and climbed to the top after visiting the ancient houses of the Samurai district.


Onsens Japan



Onsens
In the evening we were introduced to our first experience of Onsen a natural hot spring with therapeutic mineral waters that benefits diseases of the nervous system, intestines, skin problems and arthritis. We wore yukata a light weight kimono, stripped naked, soaped ourselves with oils and soap, showered and then after much hooing and hawing and much nervous laughter threw caution to the wind and went in naked into the hot steaming spa. Blissful! The atmosphere is not sleazy. We had great fun  as we massaged each other with glauosomine cream. A small towel was provided and could be draped across strategic parts of the body, placed on your head while in the pool  - said to prevent fainting. A steaming sand bath was also part of the experience at Ibusuki. We were buried in hot sand up to the neck for 15-20 minutes. The sweat streamed from our bodies. We got used to this treatment and we had several baths. We even wore the kimonos to dinner and played Bridge in them forming a new Bridge Club - NNC!

Japanese Gardens
We took a ferry to Kumamoto and visited the castle. The highlight was a visit to the Japanese Garden of Suizenji with its numerous bridges over 
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     fish filled streams, cascading waterfalls and well-trimmed shrubs.    They grow only a few flowers but many evergreens, arranged with rocks and pools to look like a whole landscape of mountains and lakes in miniature.  It was 34°C. We were exhausted as we hadn’t slept well the previous night on the futon - a floor mattress. Sleeping on the floor is not for us.
 
We traveled through a plateau 550 m above sea level along small country villages with stunning views of forested mountains, rich agricultural land of maize, rice fields, green tee plantations, sweet potato and sunflowers to the island of Aoshima which is joined to the mainland by a bridge.  We swam in the Pacific that evening and watched the sun go down.


Takachiho Gorge, Japan



Takachiho Gorge
 The highlight of the day was a visit to the Takachiho Gorge. It is a narrow chasm cut through the rock by the Gokase River. The nearly sheer cliffs lining the gorge are made from slow forming volcanic basalt columns which resemble the scales of a dragon where the stone twisted and flowed as if formed. Waterfalls cascade down to the river below against a backdrop of dense green foliage and surrounding grey cliffs.


Japan lies on the intersection of four Pacific plates and is the world’s most geologically active zone. The islands themselves were pushed up from the ocean floor by earth movements. The sharply defined mountain ranges rising from the plains all along the route of Kyushu Islands, smoking volcanoes like Mt Aso and Kagoshima and hot mineral waters at Beppu well up from the ground. Mt. Aso is the largest active volcano 80 miles in circumference, 1,000 feet higher than Carrauntouhill in Kerry and higher than Ben Nevis the highest mountain in England. We traveled by rope-car to the misty summit and peered into the deep crater. We heard the thundering and rumbling sound of the lava below as poisonous gasses and sulphur fumes
Crater at Mt. Aso
billowed into the air. We wore mask as a protection. There are numerous rock shelters along the route acting as a protection against fallen rocks. Sulphuric acid blocks were on sale at the summit and are used in gardens to kill snails. Below the peaks of the volcanoes small towns and villages sit among the forests, grasslands, bamboo groves and hot springs. We visited two hot springs one the colour of cobalt blue the other blood red taking its colour from the dissolved particles of iron oxide at Yufuin village - a popular resort located on a flat river basin, surrounded by mountains, rice paddies and farmhouses.
Indeed it amazes me how Japanese take earthquakes, volcano eruptions, tsunamis and typhoons in their stride building and rebuilding their towns wherever they find flat land. All buildings must be earthquake proof.


Tour to Japan



Japanese Food
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Eating food is markedly different from eating food in Ireland. We were all rather clumsy using chopsticks the first day but it is surprising how quickly you become adept at this art. On entering a restaurant you remove your shoes, sit at a low wooden platform covered with tatami mats. Tuck your feet behind you and sit on cushions at the table. I found this impossible with my ‘wanky’ hip. Thank God they provided an alternative for my long legs and I was able to maneuver into a sunken area in the floor and sat on cushioned chairs with no legs. The next obstacle was coping with the variety of smaller dishes as well as the indispensable rice and miso soup (made from fermented soya bean paste.) Plain ingredients are given strong flavours such as a bowl of rice topped with pickled ginger or tofu marinated in a strong vinegary sauce. We all refused to eat rice topped with a raw egg! Mac Donald’s snack box wouldn’t get a look in with the
Japanese Bento Box holding pickled radish, omelets, salmon, seaweed, rice with black sesame and pickled vegetables. They tell me the Japanese people live the longest on this healthy food of sushi – raw fish. We didn’t inquire what we were eating. We just tasted and swallowed.

Toilets
Public toilets are very clean. Japanese toilets differ from western ones as they are simple troughs in the ground to squat over – can be a problem with weak knees or hips. In the high tech Western toilets a button if pressed allows you to play a tune or make a flushing sound to discreetly mask natures noises. They facilities. A toilet whose seat popped up automatically caused great laughter among us as we joked it could determine the sex of the user!!


Temples in Japan



Temples
One day of the tour we named as “Temple Day”. At Dazaifu dedicated to the God of Learning students come to pray looking for success. We crossed over 3 bridges each representing the past, the present and the future which led us to the main shrine where a Shinto ceremony was taken place. The people involved, dressed in various vestments or costumes formed a long procession at the end of the ceremony. The temple of the biggest wooden Budda was most impressive as we went through a passageway
depicting the souls of the damned with the evil demon in a number of pictures. In the last picture the soul went through incarnation in the form of a dog, snake, bird or animal. We went from the light into a pitch-dark tunnel groping our way along side walls until eventually we emerged into the light all in keeping with the beliefs of Budda.
Shintoism is the main Japanese religion – ‘Shinto’ means the way of the Gods. The gods were thought of as the powers that controlled the wind, the rain and lightning. Some were thought to live in the mountains and other places of natural grandeur. Because it had such a large number of gods, Shintoism came to be called the religion of the million gods. Rulers and heroes were often regarded as godlike and after their death some of them were revered as Gods. There are up to 20,000 shrines in Japan.

Kyoto
Cool! Cool! Welcome relief!
On our way to Hiroshima we walked over a 5 span wooden bridge at Kintai in 34°C - extremely hot. We found a new use for umbrellas – they do provide good shade. We needed shade when we crossed over by ferry to Miyajima Shrine situated out in the sea. After a tiring day we sampled the local cuisine of pancake filled with noodles, bean sprouts, cabbage and pork topped with a fried egg, sprinkled with a rich barbecue sauce and dressed with finely chopped seaweed. Surprisingly quite delicious and healthy too.
We took a bullet train to Kyoto. Visited the Golden Temple and Ryoanji Temple made famous by Queen Elizabeth after her visit to the famous rock garden. Kyoto is an area of temples shines and gardens. It was the capital of Japan for over 1,000 years.
The Golden Temple
Emperors, Shoguns (military governors ruling in the emperors name) and feudal lords lived here and used high quality goods - therefore skilled craftsman were attracted to the area. Kyopto to day is famous for its distinctive pottery made from stone with glorious colours, silk kimonos, Kyoto dolls, fans and saki – an alcoholic drink made from rice with 15% -16% alcohol content. There were several breweries in the district. It is drank hot like Irish Whiskey for winter consumption.
High tech industries have their headquarters in Japan as the government invests large amounts of money in science research. Children’s’ games like Nintendo (translated means leave everything up to heaven) had its origin in Kyoto.
We visited Nijo Castle former home of the Shogun. We was the following rooms waiting room for the feudal lords, rooms for ladies in waiting who carried a dagger in their kimono to protect the shogun. Ancient scrolls were painted on walls doors and screens. The last shogun submitted to the young warriors determined to introduce western ways. He was looked after for the rest of his life and lived in luxury.
Nught Life Tokyo

Tokyo
We visited the city of Nara and spent the last days in Tokyo where we took an open top bus tour of this fast city of skyscrapers and neon lights. It would remind one of Times Square, New York. We viewed the city from the Sky Tree Tower. Cyclists are allowed to cycle on the footpath in this crowded city which is spotlessly clean and very safe to walk day and night. We had a wonderful time in Japan. 
I sincerely hope that the Japanese people will continue to foster their culture and not become too westernized. A special thank you to Hugh Mulrooney who organized the tour and to all the wonderful companions who helped make the trip so enjoyable.
Until we meet again SLÁN

Mary Kyne
August 2014.

Hiroshima and Nagasaki - Japan Tour



Hiroshima and Nagasaki

 PEACE STATUE NAGASAKI:The statue's raised right hand pointing to the sky symbolises the threat of nuclear weapons, his flat, outstretched left hand represents eternal peace, and his eyes are closed in prayer asking that the souls of the victims may rest in peace.


Since early childhood we have all heard of the devastation caused by the atomic bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki at the end of World War 11. On August the 6th 1945, the United States used a massive, atomic weapon against Hiroshima, Japan at 8.15 a.m. The bomb the equivalent of 20,000 tons of TNT, flattened the city, killing tens of thousands of citizens. While Japan was still trying to comprehend this devastation three days later on August 9th at 11.02, the United States struck again, this time dropping another B-29 plutonium bomb on Nagasaki.

During my recent visit with teacher friends from different parts of the country, the last surviving member of the U.S. 12 man crew on this secret mission died at the age of 93. Theodore Van Kirk lived in Georgia and was the navigator on the Enola Gay, the B-29 – the first atomic bomb deployed in wartime over Hiroshima.

At 2.45a.m, on Monday August 6th 1945, the Enola Gay took off from Tinian, a North Pacific island in the Marianas, 1,500 miles south of Japan. Paul Tibbets, the pilot nicknamed the B-29 ‘Enola Gay’ after his mother and the name was painted on the side just before take off. Two other bombers carried cameras and a variety of measuring devices escorted the plane. The ten foot 9,000 pound atomic bomb hung on a hook in the ceiling of the plane. The crew named the bomb ‘Little Boy’. According to Van Kirk ‘As the ‘Little Boy’ fell toward the sleeping city, he and his crew hoped to escape with their lives. They didn’t know whether the bomb would work and, if it did, whether its shock waves would rip their plane to shreds. Captain William Parsons was instrumental in the development of the bomb and he was responsible for arming the bomb while in flight. It took 15 minutes to arm it. No warning was given in order to save face in case the bomb malfunctioned.”

The tail gunner George Caron described what he saw. “The poisonous mushroom cloud itself was a spectacular sight, a bubbling mass of purple gray smoke with a red core in it and everything burning inside. It looked like lava or molasses covering the whole city. The cloud is estimated to have reached a height of 40,000 feet. We could no longer see the city. Black smoke and raging fires shot up from the heart of the city and crept up the mountains. The blast and its after effects killed 140,000 people in Hiroshima that day.  60,000 of the 90,000 buildings were demolished.

Survivors have described what they saw – ‘People were like walking ghosts with no hair, the hands of the dead seem to be trying to grasp the air or trying to escape the raging flames, their seared skin hanging in strips: a policeman treats burns with oil soaked rags, a child’s face is swollen with deep red scars – the effect of burns from radiation, somebody laid a white cloth over it: charred bodies are strewn everywhere: a man who died on the spot lies with one hand pointing to the sky. Blue flames rise from his fingers and liquid the colour of Indian ink oozes forth: a mother tries to flee with her headless child, a girl her clothes hanging in strips and her hair standing out like needles on a porcupine which seemed to be the condition of many of the victims staggers by.”
A mother shields her child.
Shortly after the bombing the Black Rain began to fall. A group of girls led by their teacher, their clothes stripped off sought shelter in the Elementary School. Dr Takashi Nagai author of ‘Leaving My Beloved Children Behind’ who had been researching the effects of radiation for 13 years prior to the dropping of the bomb said, ’I saw a blinding flash of light from my radium lab. In front of my very eyes, my beloved university at Nagasaki, along with my beloved students became on big huge ball of fire. My wife was reduced to a light bucketful of bones that I had to pick up from the ruins of our house. She had died in the kitchen.” He contacted an acute radiation sickness which he later died from in his late 40’s. By a stroke of luck he had sent his children to live with their grandmother in the hills for the month of august.

In Nagasaki no plants bloomed for the next two years. In the third year, they started to bloom but the flowers were strangely deformed. 69 years after the atrocity many of those who managed to survive suffered irreparable physical and psychological damage and still suffer the effects to this day. People began to complain and many were admitted to hospital seriously ill with purple spots from hypodermal bleeding all over their bodies with hair falling off and gums bleeding. Frequent coughing made breathing difficult which hastened their untimely demise.
Atomic Dome Hiroshima - formerly the Dept. of Industry


The crews that dropped the atomic bombs were seen by Americans as saviours for ending the war. August 15th Japan surrendered bringing World War 11 to an end. But over the years the morality of atomic warfare and the need for bombings had been questioned. Van Kirk maintained, ‘we were fighting an enemy that had a reputation for never surrendering never accepting defeat. It is really hard to talk about morality and war in the same sentence. Where was morality in the bombing of Coventry, Dresden or the Bataan Death March or the rape of Nanking or the bombing of Pearl Habour?’  I believe he said, ’that when you’re in a war, a nation must have the courage to do what it must to win the war with a minimum loss of life.’

We visited the Peace Memorial Museums at Hiroshima and Nagasaki. The Peace Statue at Nagasaki is highly symbolic – the right hand points skyward to warn of the threat of nuclear bombs, the left hand stretches out horizontally to symbolise world peace and the lightly closed eyes represent a prayer for the repose of the souls of all bomb
victims. Each of the items displayed in the museums embodies the grief, anger, or pain of real people. Having now recovered from the atomic bomb calamity, Hiroshima’s deepest wish is the elimination of all nuclear weapons and the realization of a genuinely peaceful and international community. As we signed petitions organized by the high school students we were reminded of President Obama’s desire to seek a nuclear free world when he said recently in Prague, ‘So long as nuclear weapons exist, we are not truly safe.’
NEVER REPEAT THE SAME MISTAKE AGAIN!                   

Mary Kyne  August 2014